Runway Review: Amsale Spring 2014

A return to classic beauty, Amsale Spring 2014 is brave and bold in how little has changed.

Amsale Wedding Gown
Amsale bridal gown from her 2014 spring collection.

Amsale Aberra started her eponymous line with the idea of classic, refined beauty and even in ages and times of glamorous excess and abandon she bravely endures knowing that her dresses are the ones that will be around for generations to come. For Aberra it is a risk that has paid off time and time again but this year’s bridal spring fashion shows found other designers going hard on the themes of femininity and sexiness. The catwalks were filled with power walking models in dresses with flirtatious cutouts and sheer fabrics. The suspense was building over what Aberra would reveal as hemlines got shorter and necklines plunged deeper on neighboring runways but she resisted the pressure once more, as she always may, and hopefully this collection will stand as a testament to her principles.

There’s something about the Amsale Spring 2014 collection that just says to us: Princess Kate. Not in the showy, delicate, McQueen that she was married in but maybe the dress the English royal would have chosen had she not a grand ceremony and all the eyes of the world. The dresses are satin finished with much attention paid to shape and structure and like the Princess’s signature style each dress is girly but without being juvenile. Modesty would not be an issue with these gowns and with their tank styles or strap additions they keep things demure but also womanly. Most necklines are scoop, bateau or if there is the occasional sweetheart or v-neck it is offset by thick straps or much structure and support. While that can sound unappealing, Amsale pulls off the gesture with grace so the dresses do not look frumpy but rather coy instead.

The details to pay attention to in this collection are not in excessive beadwork or showy embroidery but rather in the luxurious fabrics and expert cuts. Most dresses will flatter an hourglass figure as they subtly cinch at the waist, follow the curve of the hip and flare slightly just above the knee. It feels like the most natural progression for any article of clothing and the tiniest of accents, such as a sash or a bow, is just the icing on this perfectly made cake. Some of the standouts of the collection are the ones who definitely play into this image of the grown-up girl but also do have some element of modernity to them. The addition of a shimmery skirt or sheer panel makes many of these dresses fashion forward but eternally timeless–and that’s a combination only Amsale can achieve.